K tuned ram horn header

K tuned ram horn header DEFAULT

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Sours: https://www.eyeboston.com/butts1b9/ebfff1686713.htm

AW11 kswap FAQ

Q.  What about motor mounts.

A. Hux Racing offers poly inserted mounts that allow you to bolt in a Honda K series with Honda transmission into your 84-89 AW11 MR2.  First 10 sets of mounts in production. 

 

Q. Is this for the k20 or k24.

A. We offer mounts for either block. The only difference being the mount on the timing chain side.

 

Q. Which transmission can I use. 

A.  The mounts will work with most k20 transmissions, 5 or 6 speed.

Q. Do you have a plug and play harness for the aw11 k-swap?

A.  Hux Racing sells a service to blend the MR2 and K20a2 harness. Contact us for info.

     All harnesses based off of a k20a2 engine and charge harness.

Q. What ECU can I use.?

A1. Hondata-probably the first choice when using the Honda trans since you will be able to use the honda speed sensor for launch control and boost by gear.  You will need to address the dash speedo issue at this point.

A2. AEM Infinity 5-this is the ECU I purchased for my personal kswap  . I used the ka24a4 harness and pinned it to the AEM connector.

A3. Haltech PNP for the RSX-another good option as it is set up for the k20/k24 and gives you the ability to swap speed sensors( good for either trans choice)

A4. You can use any ECU you prefer to control the K.  

 

Q. What do I do about the radiator lines?

A. I have chosen to use the water necks that k-tuned sells for the left/upper neck.  Univeral cut to length hose will work. The aw11 is better than the sw20 in this regard as the hard lines point in the right direction. We should have some part #s up as customer cars get built.

 

Q. Heater lines ?

A. Simple ,the k will have two heater bungs just like the lump you removed.

 

Q.  What do I do about axles?

A. The DriveShaft Shop supplies the axles. Part #'s RA9045X2/RA9046X2

Q. How do I plumb the clutch hydraulic line to the Honda Trans.

 We are gathering info on this one. The sw20 answer is below.

A.  Hux Racing offers a 1 piece clutch line solution. Easy Peasy

 

Q.  Will I have to modify my trunk wall to make this work?

A.  No, but many do to accomadate trunk mounted intercoolers and turbo plumbing.

Q.  What do I do about an exhaust ?

A. You will need to fabricate some plumbing to tie into your exhaust of choice. Most MR2 exhaust systems have a flange at the crossmember and you can easily tie your header or down pipe into it. It has been reported that the ram horn style header will clear.

Q. What do I do about shift linkage ?

A1. Using the Honda k20 transmission the most popular solution is the RSX shift box from Hybrid Racing and a set of Hybrid Racing Race cables for an RSX.  We sell a custom cable bracket for use at the transmission.

A1b. Source a shifter box and cables from a MK3 MR2 Spyder. You will also need the shifter bracket that Innovative Mounts sells for the kswap MK3 part # 50507.    http://www.sparktecmotorsports.com/imt-50507.html

 

Q. What about air conditioning?

A. There is plenty of room to mount the Honda a.c. compressor. You will need to have a custom set of lines made.

Q. Will the RBC intake clear the front wall?

A. Yes, barely. The mockup was a k24 with RBC intake.

Q. Throttle cable?

A. The existing cable has plenty of length. You will need to fabricate a bracket . 

 

Q.  What about the fuel system?

A1. There is 2 ways you can do this.   I am using a GM C5 fuel filter/fuel pressure regulator and a fixed 60psi on my car. This would allow you to run the stock Honda fuel rail in an all motor combo.

A2. Boosted combo. An aftermarket fuel rail and fuel pressure regulator will be needed. You can feed off the stock mr2 fuel filter with an m12x1.25 to #6a.n. fitting. The factory Toyota return line is a simple hose barb.

Sours: https://www.huxracing.com/mr2-aw11-84-89-kswap-faq
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K-tuned 4-2-2-1 stainless steel 2.5'' (ram horn style) exhaust manifold K-swap (Civic/CRX/Del sol/Integra)

K-tuned 4-1 RVS 2,5'' (True Merge) spruitstuk K-swap (Civic/CRX/Del sol/Integra)

The K-Tuned Ram Header at first glance looks like a pretty crazy design. Essentially it is a long tube header that has been pushed up into the engine bay to provide much better ground clearance. However, there is another purpose to all the turns that you are seeing. They keep the exhaust gases hot and when the exhaust is hot it moves out more quickly. So I bet your next question is, "Does it make power ?" The answer is yes. This header is definitely the top dog of K-Tuned swap headers. It beat both our K-Tuned 4-2-1 Swap header and even our 4-1Race header during dyno testing. Also when tested side by side against a header with a comparable tube length we came out ahead again.

The K-Tuned Ram Header features full 304 stainless steel construction with equal length tubing and a proven stepped design. It starts with 44mm primaries to 47mm to 50mm and finishes with a 65mm or 2.5" exit. It also uses three true merge collectors at all transitions to maximize the exhaust flow. This header has been specifically designed for both high end and midrange horsepower gains. Now for the best part, not only does this header offer excellent ground clearance and shifter box clearance it also fits both K20 and K24 engines in the DA, EG, EK and DC2 chassis. Sorry guys it does not fit the EF chassis.

Key Features:

Full stainless steel construction.
100% Tig welded
CNC cut flanges
2.5' High Quality Flex
2.5' Oulet Flange
Fits most K-swap chassis
2 x O2 sensor bungs
This does NOT fit any RHD Vehicles

Sours: https://www.a4h-tech.com/en/k-tuned-4-2-2-1-stainless-steel-2-5-ram-horn-style-exhaust-manifold-k-swap-civic-crx-del-sol-integra
BLOX Racing K-Swap Header: Complete Look

Thread: K20A Swapped AW11 Build Thread

  • 10-10-2017, 12:13 PM#1

    chrisephoto is offline
    No Skills chrisephoto's Avatar

    K20A Swapped AW11 Build Thread

    I will update this thread as progress is made, and update this first post with the cars current status.

    Parts List (Constantly Updated)

    Chassis
    Advan SA3R - 16"x7" +38
    Falken RT615K - 205/40R16
    Muteki SR48 Lug Nuts - Titanium Color
    Prothane Suspension Bushings
    Godspeed Mono RS Coilovers
    Swift Springs (6k Front/10k Rear)
    Techno Toy Tuning Rear Camber Plate
    Techno Toy Tuning Front Tension Control Rods
    Techno Toy Tuning Rear Toe Links
    Goodridge Stainless Steel Brake Lines

    Electronics
    Hondata KPro v4
    Wireworx Engine Wiring Harness
    Ptetra Conversion Harness
    Mitsuba Alpha II Horns
    Big Crank ETX30L Battery

    Engine
    K20A2 Engine - 2002-2004 Acura RSX Type S
    Hux Racing Engine Mounts
    Fuelab 51502 Fuel Pressure Regulator
    Fuelab 71501 Fuel Pressure Gauge
    Russell 650133 Fuel Filter
    K-Tuned Fuel Rail
    K-Tuned A/C & P/S Eliminator Kit
    K-Tuned Swivel Neck Thermostat
    K-Tuned Upper Coolant Housing with Filler
    K-Tuned Clutch Slave Cylinder
    PLM Ram Horn Header
    Skunk2 Ultra Street Manifold - Modified
    Skunk2 Alpha Throttle Body
    IACV Block Off
    Ptetra Intake
    Ptetra Throttle Rotor
    Ptetra Throttle Cable Bracket
    Ptetra Heater Pipe
    Seeker Oil Cap
    Aluminum Radiator
    Canton Racing Coolant Overflow
    K20Z3 Transmission - 2006-2011 Honda Civic Si
    Ptetra Shifter Cable Bracket
    Hybrid Racing K20Z3 No-Cut Shifter
    Hybrid Racing Shifter Cables
    Driveshaft Shop Axles

    Exterior
    Raybrig FH05 Headlights
    OEM JDM Folding Mirrors
    Top Fuel Blue Wide Angle Mirror Glass (so I can see out of the RHD mirrors)
    TBS Front Lip
    Cusco License Plate Relocator

    Interior
    Buddy Club P1 Racing Seats (Regular / Wide)
    Bride FO Seat Rail - Drivers
    Bride XL Seat Rail - Passengers
    Takata Drift II Harnesses
    Zoom Engineering Penta Rear View Mirror
    Works Bell Hub
    Works Bell Rapfix II Quick Release
    Works Bell 350mm Steering Wheel
    TOM'S Shift Knob
    TOM'S Horn Button
    Techno Toy Tuning Harness Bar
    JDM Right Side A Pillar Trim (to remove handle)

    Current Status

    Last edited by chrisephoto; 04-26-2020 at 01:11 PM.


  • 10-10-2017, 02:28 PM#2

    europa is offline

    Hopefully, the condition of the paint on the rest of the car similar to that shown in the pictures. There have been a number of interesting engine swaps that must have taken plenty of time and money to complete, which are in cars that need a lot of attention.

    (You might need a new garage door holder if you are going to take a lot of pictures.)


  • 10-10-2017, 03:23 PM#3

    chrisephoto is offline
    No Skills chrisephoto's Avatar
    The engine is bolted in but there are a lot of little things to sort out before it's ready to drive including:
    Heater hoses
    Radiator hoses
    Clutch line
    Fuel line
    Throttle rotor and throttle cable bracket
    Shift linkage bracket
    Wiring

    No engine:


    Here's the car as it sits now:


    Here's a shot of the outside prior to taking it off the road for the swap:


    It has a little rear quarter rust and has had bodywork before, so it isn't perfect. But cleaning it up and doing a few simple exterior mods (TBS front lip, 89 spec LED spoiler) are in the plan eventually.

    Last edited by chrisephoto; 01-02-2019 at 08:12 AM.


  • 11-05-2017, 11:50 PM#4

    KingDra3 is offline
    Some Skills

    dude that is clean as FUQ

    Follow my MR2 Build on Instagram @mr2_Deadly


  • 12-28-2018, 02:10 PM#5

    chrisephoto is offline
    No Skills chrisephoto's Avatar
    Forgot about this thread. Progress has been slow over the last year or so, but the car is almost ready to drive again now.

    Couple of things that have needed to be tackled to get everything to fit and work exactly as I wanted.

    Originally I was planning on running an RBC (2006 - 2011 Honda Civic Si, K20Z3) intake manifold. However, the manifold was really close to the firewall, especially with a thermal intake manifold gasket installed. Also the angle and position of the throttle body interfered with the radiator hose and made working around the shift linkage and selector difficult. In reality it would probably work fine, but I decided to go a different route.

    I decided to use a Skunk2 Ultra Steet Intake Manifold (307-05-0600) as the plenum is reversible, which provided more clearance from the firewall - due to the slope of the plenum and the uneven distance to the firewall. It also positioned the throttle body towards the side vent on the MR2, which is where the intake will be going.



    Because the plenum was flipped over, the throttle body was now upside down, which caused a few issues - primarily the throttle rotor position and the IACV position - and the angle caused the intake to pass very close to the idler pulley. So I cut off the throttle body flange, machined the flange flat, rotated it 180 degrees, and welded it on straight.



    As you can see in the photos, I decided to go with a PLM Ram Horn style exhaust manifold, which despite it's awful quality, fits in the engine bay really well! The flange on the bottom half of the header is only ~10 inches from the end of the bumper, so it will be modified to allow me to run a full length muffler.

    Last edited by chrisephoto; 12-29-2018 at 09:53 PM.


  • 12-28-2018, 02:21 PM#6

    chrisephoto is offline
    No Skills chrisephoto's Avatar
    Another thing that I wasn't happy with was the throttle rotor itself. The K20 throttle rotor is effectively smaller - a lot smaller - than the 4AGE throttle rotor. That meant that with the gas pedal about 25% of the way down, the throttle body was already wide open. Because I wanted to use the full pedal travel, I needed a bigger throttle rotor.

    So I designed a throttle rotor with the correct diameter to work with the factory MR2 gas pedal. I 3D printed it - as well as a new throttle cable bracket - and installed everything on the throttle body to make sure it worked.



    Once everything was confirmed working, I had one machined.

    Last edited by chrisephoto; 12-29-2018 at 10:10 PM.


  • 12-28-2018, 02:40 PM#7

    chrisephoto is offline
    No Skills chrisephoto's Avatar
    Another project that I had to tackle was the shift linkage, shifter, and brackets.

    There are a few off the shelf options for those use a K20A transmission, but I decided to go with a K20Z3 transmission for the shorter gearing and factory LSD. The shift forks and shift selector on the K20Z3 transmission work differently from the K20A so I had to get creative. My original plan was to use the K-Tuned no-cut K20Z3 shifter box with K20A cables and a custom shift linkage bracket. Unfortunately, because I want to retain the factory center console without cutting it up, the K-Tuned shifter was too big. I'm currently waiting for my Hybrid Racing no cut K20Z3 shifter to show up, as it is a little smaller and I believe it should fit. If not, my fall back is to use a factory ST180 Celica shifter, which I will have to make a couple of bushings and spacers for to have adequate shifter throw.

    As for the bracket that holds the shift linkage onto the transmission, that will be completely custom. I started again with a 3D print, which was adjustable so I could get all of the lengths and positions just right before making the final bracket. I had to remove the counterweight from the K20Z3 shift selector as well as it got in the way of the shift linkage.



    The design was completed and is currently being made and I should have the finished bracket soon.

    Last edited by chrisephoto; 12-29-2018 at 10:11 PM.


  • 12-28-2018, 06:32 PM#8

    bkperformance19 is offline
    Master of Disaster bkperformance19's Avatar

    Pics aren't showing up? doing something different since the last time you posted?


  • 12-29-2018, 10:08 PM#9


  • 12-29-2018, 10:37 PM#10


  • 12-29-2018, 10:49 PM#11

    bkperformance19 is offline
    Master of Disaster bkperformance19's Avatar

    Very nice work! everything is so clean and perfect. My god I'd be afraid to put oil in it. All kidding aside what are the power goals? and use for the car Show race driver? I'm going to be continuing on my 85 as well just getting it out of paint.

    Keep up the great work!!


  • 12-29-2018, 11:22 PM#12

    chrisephoto is offline
    No Skills chrisephoto's Avatar

    Thanks! The motor is essentially stock, probably good for 210ish whp with the intake, header, exhaust, and a tune. The car will be used for Road Course racing and AutoX - not competitively, just for fun - so that should be plenty.


  • 01-01-2019, 12:25 PM#13

    chrisephoto is offline
    No Skills chrisephoto's Avatar

    Updated first post with a (relatively) complete parts list


  • 01-01-2019, 12:54 PM#14

    europa is offline

    Quite impressive and very clean.

    Last edited by europa; 01-01-2019 at 08:27 PM.


  • 01-17-2019, 03:20 PM#15

    chrisephoto is offline
    No Skills chrisephoto's Avatar


    Added some gold heat tape to the firewall as the header is probably only about 2" away from it at some points.
    Put the coils back on.
    The shifter bracket is completed, but won't be going on until the shifter and cables show up (sometime in February).
    Custom throttle cable bracket is complete and installed.
    Custom throttle rotor is going out for anodize in a few days.
    Intake is trimmed to length, just need to weld on the velocity stack and the intake system will be complete!

  • 01-03-2020, 11:31 AM#16

    xxxboosted2xxx is offline
    AKA: HMP

    Im not an AW11 guy, but thought I'd check out this thread (yes, I know it's an old one)...wow, very nice work!
    Looks so dang clean.

    I like that gold heat tape on the firewall - where did you source and was it hard to apply?
    Ive seen it in racecars and such, looks cool and is functional.


  • 04-01-2020, 02:55 PM#17

    chrisephoto is offline
    No Skills chrisephoto's Avatar

    Thanks! I bought the heat tape on Amazon (Link). If you want the rolls, rather than sheets, Jegs and Summit Racing both have a really good selection available.

    The firewall is very much not flat and the sheet isn't particularly stretchy. Since I bought a large sheet rather than the narrow rolls, I had to make a few cuts in the sheet so I could overlap parts. All in all, it came out very well (there are no visible seams) and only took about 30 minutes or so (I really wanted it to look good).


  • 04-01-2020, 03:33 PM#18


  • 04-01-2020, 09:17 PM#19

    xxxboosted2xxx is offline
    AKA: HMP

    SA3! One of my favorite wheels ever!


  • Sours: http://www.mr2.com/forums/

    Tuned horn header ram k

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    K-Tuned Ram Header Install and Downstar Header Hardware (K20 Integra)

    .

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